What It's Really Like Living Through a Heatwave in Annecy.
- Bernie
- Jul 11
- 6 min read
Updated: Jul 16
Since moving to Annecy in 2017, I’ve come to appreciate the changing seasons but this summer, something shifted. A heatwave unlike anything I’ve experienced before took hold. By June 29th, temperatures had soared to 35°C in the shade and by July 2nd it felt like 39°C. At night, sometimes the thermo-meter didn’t drop below 25°C. There was no freshness in the air, just relentless heat. Even the lake, usually a source of crisp relief, felt like a warm bath at 27°C.
As you can imagine, Annecy is truly stunning in summer but what happens when a heatwave like this hits? This article from Simply Annecy helps you discover what it's really like, how locals cope and what the government is doing to help.
What's Annecy Like in a Heatwave?
Annecy isn’t built for the heat, that’s the first thing you notice. It’s not just about personal discomfort, though trying to sleep through 25C nights without air conditioning isn't pleasant. It’s about how the city responds. The cobbled streets, usually so charming, radiate heat by mid-afternoon. Buses are stifling and shaded alleys, few and far between, feel like sacred ground.
Even the lake, typically Annecy’s crown jewel, becomes a mixed blessing. While it still looks serene, the influx of people trying to cool off creates traffic jams, crowded beaches and packed waters.
The Lake and the Mountains: A Double-Edged Sword
Living between a lake and mountains sounds idyllic and don't get me wrong, it often is but during a heatwave, that geography both helps and hinders.
Pros:
The lake offers some reprieve; an early morning or late evening dip or paddle board session resets your body temperature and mood.
Escaping to higher elevations such as the nearby woods of Semnoz, can offer cooler air.
Some older stone buildings remain naturally insulated, staying cooler for a few days.
Cons:
• The surrounding mountains trap heat, creating a basin effect that leaves the hot air with nowhere to escape.
• Shade is limited, especially around tourist hotspots. Finding a quiet, cool spot by the lake in July/August is nearly impossible. The Parc d'Europe (behind the former town hall) and the trees next to the cycle path, in front of the Bonlieu Theatre and which continue to the end of Albigny beach, offer some relief but even these spaces can get busy quickly.
• Most buildings, private and public, aren't designed for this kind of heat.
When Everyday Life Becomes a Challenge
The heat affects even the simplest daily routines:
Shopping becomes a matter of strategy, going early or using multiple cool bags to avoid melting groceries.
Public transport feels like a sauna unless you’re lucky enough to catch one of the few AC-equipped buses.
Working is hard; home offices overheat, cafés are crowded and for those in physical jobs, the heat is exhausting and at times dangerous.
There’s a growing awareness of how vulnerable populations are affected; the elderly, children and those living in accommodation without proper ventilation. It’s not just inconvenient, it’s a public health concern.
I know of children sent home when classrooms reached over 32°C with no way to cool down. A friend’s office closed early all week. Even our local dry cleaners shut temporarily, it was simply too hot to work.
So Why Don’t the French Just Use Air Conditioning (AC) I here you ask?
This question comes up a lot, especially from newcomers. It’s even sparked a political debate. Marine Le Pen’s Rassemblement National party has proposed a "grand plan for air conditioning", but many on the left, centre and general public, oppose this one-size-fits-all solution.
According to a 2020 ADEME study, only around 25% of French homes have AC which is in stark contrast to the 90% of U.S. households and even in French shops and offices, AC is far from universal.
Why is this? It’s partly cultural. Many French people associate AC with waste, indulgence or even illness. They find it unnatural to close yourself inside your home and pump in artificial cold air. Then there’s the environmental impact.
A 2024 report by Our World in Data found that AC uses 7% of global electricity and produces 3% of carbon emissions and both are expected to rise. A study in Paris found that widespread AC use during a heatwave can increase outdoor temperatures by 2°C and contribute to the very carbon emissions that we’re striving to cut. To an extent, the use of AC also enables us to turn a blind eye to the crisis that our planet is experiencing when surely we should be facing it head on and look for long term, sustainable solutions.
Putting this to one side, the French aren’t completely anti-AC. It’s actually been a legal requirement for nursing homes to have AC for nearly 20 years. But the push is toward sustainable solutions in addition to AC such as increasing vegetation in public spaces and thermally insulating buildings. Furthermore, grants are available to homeowners who want to install a heat pump or better insulate their property.
Is This Recent Heatwave the New Normal?
It might be. This is the longest, most intense heatwave I’ve experienced since moving here. My Annecy-born friends recall the infamous 2003 heatwave when nearly 15,000 people died, mostly elderly people living alone. Some Parisians returned from vacation to find their bedroom ceiling stained from the bodily fluids of a neighbour who had died and until then, had gone unreported!
I remember the 2019 heatwave, our first summer here when temperatures hit a record-breaking 46°C near Nîmes and 43°C in Paris. National exams were postponed and red weather alerts were issued, urging the public to stay at home.
Then came 2022, France’s second-hottest summer and hottest year on record. Nearly 4,800 heat-related deaths were reported. This year, Météo-France, the French weather agency, confirmed the heatwave lasted 16 days, the same duration as the deadly 2003 heatwave.
What Is the Government Doing?
According to Mathilde Pascal, scientific project manager at Santé Publique France, the 2003 heatwave triggered a health crisis which rapidly became a major political and social one. A parliamentary inquiry published in February 2004 identified multiple failings and that summer, France launched its first national heatwave plan.
This is basically a warning system which categorises the threat from green to red, with each colour activating a specific plan. These definitions vary across the country because every region has differing temperature norms but in general, a heatwave is usually orange and means that the temperature has passed a certain level for three consecutive days. If the level hits red; severe heatwave, the national government gets involved whilst local authorities are given special powers to close certain events and public facilities, if deemed necessary.
To give you an idea, on 29th June of this year, Météo-France announced that a heatwave was going to occur in the Deux-Sèvres (a department in the west between Nantes and Bordeaux) when a minimum temperature of 35°C is recorded during the day and 20°C at night. Meanwhile in the North, a heatwave is when temperatures exceed 33°C during the day and 18°C at night.
For outdoor workers in France, a new law requires employers to adjust the work schedule so that employees are not outdoors during the hottest part of the day.
Annecy’s Response
In addition to the government's ‘heatwave plan’, Annecy is stepping up its efforts to support its residents during periods of extreme heat. This includes:
Creating shaded areas with seating.
Working with social services to support the most vulnerable e.g providing an air-conditioned room in homeless shelters.
Offering free water and handheld fans at municipal buildings.
Lowering admission to Jean Régis and Île Bleue indoor pools to €2 during declared heatwaves.
In schools and crèches:
• Staff are trained to recognise heat levels and respond appropriately.
• Activities are adjusted throughout the day to minimise exposure.
In elderly care homes:
• Cooling support is offered after meals.
• Cold, hydrating meals are served.
• Fans are prioritised for the most vulnerable
Final Thoughts
Annecy is still beautiful, the lake sparkles at sunset and the mountains bring peace that’s hard to find elsewhere but loving a place also means seeing it clearly. Even paradise has its stress points. This heatwave has reminded me that no place is immune to climate change. Living somewhere "natural" doesn’t mean you're protected. If you’re considering a move here, know this: yes, you’ll have glorious summers but you might also be buying fans in bulk by July.
That's all for now. If you have any questions or comments about the above feel free to contact me.
À bientôt.
Tel: 06 28 13 82 60
Email: info@simplyannecy.
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